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Everything we know about feeding plants, in one place

We've manufactured fertilizer in Madera, California since 1989, and these guides come out of that work — real label rates, real formulation reasoning, and the honest answer when a product isn't the right fit. Start with your crop, jump straight to a tool, or work through the fundamentals.

🌱 Est. 1989 🇺🇸 Made in California 🧪 CDFA Registered 🔬 Heavy Metal Tested

Free tools

Three things you can't get from a search result: exact rates for your setup, a diagnosis based on your actual conditions, and a starting point when you don't know what you need.

Every batch, tested and published. We post third-party heavy metal analysis for our products because you shouldn't have to take a manufacturer's word for what's in the bag.

Feeding guides by crop

What each crop actually needs, when it needs it, and the rates to apply — for soil, containers, and hydroponics.

Guide

Tomatoes

NPK by growth stage, soil and hydroponic rates, and how to shift the nitrogen-to-potassium ratio toward potassium once flowering starts without starving indeterminate vines.
Guide

Peppers

Why fruiting peppers want a potassium-forward 11-11-40 rather than a balanced feed, container versus in-ground rates, and how potassium, water stress and temperature interact with heat levels.
Guide

Lettuce & Leafy Greens

Soil, pots, and hydroponics — including how to prevent tip burn, why the EC ceiling matters, and where chelated micronutrients fit. Covers spinach, kale, chard and arugula too.
Guide

Strawberries

Why strawberries take four times more potassium than nitrogen, application rates for soil and hydroponics, and timing by growth stage.
Guide

Herbs

Basil, mint, rosemary, parsley, thyme and more — label rates for containers, hydroponics, and indoor growing, plus why Mediterranean herbs take half rate.
Guide

Cucumbers & Vines

Choosing a fertilizer for cucumbers, squash, and melons — heavy potassium feeders that are chloride-sensitive, which is why sulfate sources beat muriate here.
Guide

Roses & Flowers

Choosing, applying, and troubleshooting flower fertilizer — feeding for bloom rather than foliage, and why alfalfa meal has been the classic rose amendment for a century.
Guide

Citrus & Fruit Trees

Telling zinc, iron and manganese chlorosis apart on alkaline western soils, per-tree rates by age, container citrus, and why nitrogen form matters above pH 7.0.
Guide

Avocado

Shallow roots that burn on heavy nitrogen, the chloride sensitivity that defines avocado nutrition, and why timing around bloom matters as much as the annual total.
Guide

Azaleas & Acid Lovers

Target pH by plant, why elemental sulfur is the only form that durably lowers it, the ammonium nitrogen blueberries need — and the vinegar test that tells you when acidifying won't work at all.
Guide

Houseplants & Indoor

Why light sets the feeding rate rather than the calendar, how to spot and flush salt buildup, and the tap-water problems behind most brown leaf tips.
Guide

Lawns

Nitrogen budgets by grass type, why fall feeding beats spring for cool-season turf, and how to use iron for colour without adding a single mowing.
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Palms & Tropicals

Three deficiencies define palm nutrition: potassium and magnesium on the oldest fronds, manganese "frizzle top" on new growth. Shop palm and tropical fertilizers →

How plant nutrients work

Fourteen mineral nutrients, three of them on every label. What each one does inside the plant, how a shortage shows up, and which fertilizer supplies it — the reading underneath both the crop guides and the deficiency identifier. Diagnosing rather than learning? Go straight to the identifier.

Start here: Major vs. Trace Elements in Plants — what N-P-K stands for (nitrogen, available phosphate P₂O₅, soluble potash K₂O), the six macronutrients and eight micronutrients, and why "secondary" and "trace" don't mean optional.

Primary macronutrients — the N-P-K on the label

Nitrogen (N)

Proteins, chlorophyll, nucleic acids — the growth engine, and the nutrient most often short in garden soil. Shortage yellows the oldest leaves first and works upward. Ammonium, nitrate and urea move and act differently in soil, so the source matters as much as the number. Shop nitrogen →

Phosphorus (P)

Energy transfer (ATP), cell division, root establishment and reproductive growth; demand peaks at germination and transplanting. Purple-tinged older leaves are the classic sign — in cold soil, usually an uptake problem rather than a true shortage. On the label it's available phosphate (P₂O₅). Shop phosphorus →

Potassium (K)

Not a building block — an ionic regulator: stomata and water balance, sugar transport into fruit, and the activity of dozens of enzymes. Marginal scorch on older leaves first. The "quality nutrient" for fruit size, firmness and shelf life. On the label it's soluble potash (K₂O). Shop potassium →

Secondary macronutrients

Calcium (Ca)

Cell walls (calcium pectate) and the growing tips of roots and shoots. Immobile, so new growth suffers first — tip burn, distorted young leaves, blossom end rot — and most cases are a delivery problem (uneven water, high transpiration) before they're a soil problem. Shop calcium & magnesium →

Magnesium (Mg)

The atom at the center of every chlorophyll molecule, and required wherever the plant spends energy (ATP). Mobile — interveinal chlorosis on older leaves first — and most common on sandy, leached, or potassium-heavy soils. Shop calcium & magnesium →

Sulfur (S)

Two amino acids (cysteine, methionine), so every protein and enzyme; also chlorophyll formation and the flavor compounds in onions, garlic and brassicas. Taken up as sulfate. Yellowing on the newer leaves — nitrogen deficiency's look-alike, from the other end of the plant. Shop elemental sulfur →

Read the three together: Secondary Nutrients in Plants — the Ca, Mg, S guide.

Micronutrients

Needed in tiny amounts, and mostly a pH story: iron, zinc, manganese and copper drop out of reach as soil pH climbs past roughly 6.5, molybdenum does the opposite, and boron leaches. Most are immobile, so trouble shows on new growth first. This is where sulfate vs. chelated matters more than anywhere else.

Iron (Fe)

Not part of chlorophyll, but required to make it — plus the electron-transport chains of photosynthesis and respiration, and nitrate reduction. Interveinal chlorosis on the newest leaves. Above about pH 6.5–7.0 it's usually lockout, not absence, which is why chelate choice (DTPA vs. EDTA vs. ferrous sulfate) is the whole decision. Shop iron & micronutrients →

Zinc (Zn)

Auxin production (so internode length), protein synthesis and enzyme activation. Small leaves, short internodes and rosetting on new growth, with interveinal chlorosis. Locked up by high pH and by heavy phosphorus — pecans, citrus and corn show it first. Shop zinc & micronutrients →

Manganese (Mn)

Photosynthesis (the water-splitting step of Photosystem II), enzyme activation and nitrogen metabolism. Interveinal chlorosis on new-to-middle-aged leaves rather than only the newest — the practical tell against iron — and "frizzle top" on palms. Shows up above pH 6.5, on organic soils, and in cool wet springs. Shop manganese & micronutrients →

Copper (Cu)

Lignin and cell-wall strength, photosynthetic electron transport, and several enzyme systems. Wilting, pale twisted young leaves and dieback of shoot tips; most likely on peat and muck soils and at high pH. The margin to toxicity is narrow — it's the micronutrient to be stingiest with. Shop copper & micronutrients →

Boron (B)

Cell-wall structure, cell division at growing points, pollen-tube growth and fruit set, and moving sugars. Death of the growing point, hollow stems, corky or cracked fruit, poor set — on sandy leached soils and at high pH. Deficient and toxic are only a few ppm apart, so it's a measure-first nutrient. Shop boric acid →

Molybdenum (Mo)

Required by the enzymes that reduce nitrate to usable nitrogen and, in legume nodules, fix it from the air. Pale, cupped or strap-like leaves — cauliflower "whiptail" — and nitrogen-deficiency symptoms on plants with plenty of nitrate. The one micronutrient that becomes less available as pH drops; liming an acid soil is usually the fix. Shop Micro Green (carries Mo) →

The full set in one read: Essential Micronutrients: Boost Your Garden Soil for Healthier Plants. Chlorine and nickel round out the fourteen — both essential, both rarely short in practice; the Major vs. Trace guide covers them.

Fertilizer fundamentals

Which product for which job — the buying guides, the sulfate-vs-chelate question, and how to build fertility before you plant.

Best Fertilizers for a Vegetable Garden

Organic and water-soluble options for every vegetable, from root crops to fruiting plants, with rates and timing across the season.

Best Organic Fertilizer for Vegetables

Which organic amendment for which job — fast nitrogen, season-long nitrogen, phosphorus at transplant, and potassium with stress support.

Best Nitrogen Fertilizer

Seven options compared, from fast-acting urea to slow-release feather meal, with a decision guide for garden, lawn, and hydroponics.

Best Water-Soluble Fertilizers for Every Crop

Matching formula to crop and growth stage, and why solubility matters for hydroponics, fertigation, and foliar feeding.

Sulfate vs. Chelated Micronutrients

Why chelates cost more, when they're worth it, and why sulfate forms fail above pH 7.0 — the single most useful thing to understand about micronutrients.

The Organic Gardener's Guide to Soil Preparation

Building fertility before you plant — amendments, timing, and how to read a soil test.

Something's wrong with my plant

Start here: the deficiency identifier walks you through symptom location, pattern, soil pH and growing method — and screens out the look-alikes first. Most plant problems that appear to be deficiencies are actually watering, salt buildup, cold soil, or pH lockout, and feeding those makes them worse.

Why Are My Plant's Leaves Turning Yellow?

Nine causes, how to tell them apart, and which ones fertilizer will and won't fix.

Fertilizer Toxicity vs. Nutrient Deficiency

Too much and too little produce symptoms that look alike. How to tell which one you're looking at before you feed — because guessing wrong doubles the damage.

Blossom end rot on tomatoes or peppers

Usually a calcium transport failure caused by uneven watering, not a soil calcium shortage. Fix the moisture consistency first — the identifier explains why.

Yellow leaves with green veins

Interveinal chlorosis. On new growth it's iron (usually pH lockout above 6.5); on old growth it's magnesium. Compare the reference photos →

Brown crispy tips with white crust on the soil

Salt buildup, not hunger — and feeding makes it worse. Most common in containers and houseplants. How to flush it out →

Not sure how much to apply

The calculator carries our actual label rates across every application method — no more guessing at "a scoop per gallon."

Ready to shop

Browse all fertilizers, or start from what you're growing or the nutrient you need.

Shop by crop: Tomatoes & Vegetables · Lettuce & Leafy Greens · Peppers & Herbs · Strawberries & Berries · Cucumbers & Vines · Roses & Flowers · Azaleas & Acid Lovers · Citrus & Fruit Trees · Palms & Tropicals · Houseplants & Indoor · Lawns

Questions about your specific situation? Email questions@greenwaybiotech.com or call (562) 351-5168, Monday–Friday 7AM–5PM PST — you'll reach people who make the products.